Independent media since 2014
by Charlotte Wannebroucq · CNE Accredited Gemmologist

THE JEWEL IN THE MIDDLE

Before taking shape in metal and stone, the jewel is born from a drawing. The exhibition Designs of Jewelry. The Secrets of Creation, presented at the Petit Palais, reveals the richness of its collection of jewelry designs, preserved since the 1990s and rarely shown to the public. Through a selection of more than 5,500 sheets, the museum reveals a century of ingenuity, from the 19th to the 20th century.
Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
Founder and Editor-in-Chief
Updated on September 16
Updated on 16 September 2026
Unidentified artist for Boucheron, Nécessaire butterflies, circa 1945. Graphite pencil, ink and gouache on the front, ink and gouache on the back on translucent linen paper, 12.1 × 15 cm. Petit Palais, Museum of Fine Arts of the City of Paris. Purchased from the Dutuit bequest, 2002. CCØ Paris Musées / Petit Palais, Museum of Fine Arts of the City of Paris.
JEWELRY DESIGN

The jewel in its sketches, the origins of jewelry creation.

Before taking shape in metal and stone, the jewel is born from a line. The exhibition Bead designs. The secrets of creation, The exhibition, presented at the Petit Palais, reveals the richness of its collection of jewelry designs, created since the 1990s and rarely shown to the public. Through a selection of more than 5,500 sheets, the museum reveals a century of ingenuity, from the 19th to the 20th century.

Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Ring, around 1945. Graphite and gouache on translucent paper, 16.7 × 12.6 cm. Petit Palais, Museum of Fine Arts of the City of Paris. Donation of the Jacqueau family, 1998. © Charles Jacqueau – Paris Musées / Petit Palais, Museum of Fine Arts of the City of Paris.
Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Ring, around 1945.
Graphite and gouache crayon on translucent paper, 16.7 × 12.6 cm.
Petit Palais, Museum of Fine Arts of the City of Paris.
Donation by the Jacqueau family, 1998.
© Charles Jacqueau – Paris Musées / Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts
from the City of Paris.

The exhibition follows the creative process from the initial inspirations to the technical development. Nature, ornamental motifs and ancient repertories inform the designers’ research. Sketchbooks and detailed drawings provide a record of this quest for forms and balances.

The exhibition highlights the place of drawing in the creation of jewelry. From the quick sketch to the final model, enhanced with gouache, each sheet bears witness to a dialogue between technical rigor and artistic expression. A video produced in partnership with the Haute École de Joaillerie illustrates the role of the gouache artist, whose brush accurately translates the reflections and volumes.

A set of drawings is presented alongside finished jewelry, drawn from the collections of the Petit Palais and prestigious workshops such as Boucheron and Cartier. This juxtaposition highlights the essential role of drawing in the interpretation of jewelry, from the work of the engraver to that of the jeweler.

At the end, the exhibition questions the function of drawing beyond its preparatory dimension. Through its ability to traverse time, it becomes a memory and source of inspiration for future generations. A selection of rarely exhibited jewelry dialogues with period portraits, extending this reflection on the transmission of forms and know-how.

Beads Designs
From April 1 to July 20, 2025
Petit Palais Paris

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Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
The author

Charlotte Wannebroucq

Gemmologist expert, member of the CNE-Art, and expert in signed jewelry. Twenty-five years of experience at the heart of Parisian jewelry, between the Carré Rive Gauche and Place Vendôme.
She signs the decryptions of collections, the analyses of stones and the estimates published in Esprit Joaillerie. Each piece commented on is examined in person, in the workshop, in the sales room or in the showroom.
  • Expertise

    Gemmology and signed jewellery

  • Member

    CNE-Art

  • Experience

    Over 25 years in Parisian jewellery