JEWELS FROM THE AL THANI COLLECTION

The jewels from the Al Thani collection at the Grand Palais.
The exhibition Des Great Mughals to the Maharajas: Jewels from the Al Thani Collection
It opens its doors this Wednesday, March 29, 2017, at the Grand Palais.

It has to be said that this is an event because it is an exceptional collection that is being presented. Because it is the world of Indian jewelry and its history, The period from the Mongol era to the present is presented. Moreover, unique in its very long chronological period, the Al Thani collection represents four centuries.
Also, this collection is remarkable for its diversity. From objects from the imperial Mogul treasure to the masterpieces of contemporary jewelers who incorporate ancient stones into their jewelry, or whose inspiration draws from the traditional forms and motifs of India.

The basements of South Asia have long hidden fabulous stones. Thus, the Golconda diamonds, sapphires from Kashmir, rubies from Burma, or pearls from the Gulf inspired the Indian artisans. It is all these precious achievements, marks of fashion, stories, and social status that led His Highness Sheikh Hamad bin Abdullah Al Thani to create this unique collection.

Here is a glimpse of this magnificent universe.

In 1526 India was conquered by Ahir ud-din Babur, a descendant of Timur (Tamerlan) and Genghis Khan. He founded a dynasty closely linked to precious stones. The Mughals perpetuated the Timurian custom of engraving their names on the most precious stones, thus forming a dynastic heritage.

The Mughal emperors also appreciated hard stones that served as base materials in the creation of luxury objects.
Moreover, these stones had protective powers. The vases, mirrors, boxes, or even swords made of jade or quartz ensured the protection of their owner. According to beliefs, jade could reveal and protect from poisons. The art of the Mogul lapidaries reached an unparalleled level, especially in the work of agate, onyx, and rock crystal.

This is the kundan technique, which allows the gemstones to be set in gold without the use of claws, and is one of the characteristics of Indian jewelry. The stone is surrounded by gold, thus ensuring its retention. Around this closed setting, one will appreciate the «Indian sizes» (far from the symmetrical facet sizes), which respect the original dimensions of the stone to the maximum extent possible.

Another characteristic of Indian jewelry is represented by their enamelled decoration. It is certainly the enamelled jewelry of the Renaissance that managed to inspire Mughal culture until the early 19th century.

Jewels have always held a certain power. Especially in India, precious stones and jewelry were synonymous with royalty.
Reserved for men, the most beautiful stones affirmed the prosperity of the kingdom. Thus, the ornaments of turbans, crowns, necklaces, earrings, bracelets on the upper arm, bracelets, rings, belts, and ankle bracelets represented power.

Unchanged until the early 19th century, the fashionable jewelry observed a growing European influence with the adoption of certain models, sizes in facets, and settings open to Western claws.

From the end of the 19th century, the princely elites preferred platinum to gold for the mounting of their most precious stones, before exporting their jewelry to Europe in accordance with the latest Western trends.

In 1911, Jacques Cartier embarked on a journey to India, hoping to find both a new clientele and other sources of supply for precious stones. He thus inaugurated an era of close relations with the Indian princes and the major houses.

A magnificent exhibition that will transport you to a world where the stones compete with one another for admiration with their extraordinary colors and sizes worthy of great adventure novels.

From March 29, 2017 to June 5, 2017
Grand Palais Paris

grandpalais.fr