Independent media since 2014
by Charlotte Wannebroucq · CNE Accredited Gemmologist

ASIAN FANTASY IN THE CARTIER AND BAUR COLLECTIONS

Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
Founder and Editor-in-Chief
Updated on January 14
Updated on 14 January 2023
ASIA DREAM FOUNDATION BAUR ESPRIT JEWELLERY 16

The dreamed-of Asia in the collections Cartier and Baur.

ASIA A DREAM IN THE BAUR AND CARTIER COLLECTIONS

It should be noted that a very beautiful exhibition begins today at the Baur Foundation, the Museum of the Arts of the Far East in Geneva. To our greatest delight, the dreamlike Asia of the collections of the Baur Foundation is now on display in the museum. House Cartier Those from the Baur Foundation are on display for visitors.

Chinese Necessities: Gold, Platinum, Diamonds, Coral, Mother-of-Pearl, Enamel, Cartier Lacquer 1926
Necessary Chinese
Or, Platinum, Diamonds, Coral, Mother of Pearl, Enamel, Lacquer
Cartier 1926
Burgundy lacquer box from the late 19th century Collection Baur
Burgundy lacquered box
end of the 19th century
Baur Collection

It should be noted that it was in the 19th century that a fascination with an «exotic art», Asian art, began. Thus, Asia exerted a considerable influence on Western art until the 20th century. In fact, Europe discovered Asia, its way of life, its philosophy, and its «curiosities».

Katabori (Netsuke) Wood, Lacquered Wood Japanese late Edo period, 19th century Foundation Baur
Katabori (Netsuke)
Wood, Lacquered Wood
Japan at the end of the Edo period, 19th century
Baur Foundation

As we go along, tVarious kinds of objects from China and Japan are then offered (porcelain, ivory, prints, netsuke…). These curiosities called «curiosities» captivate, and the enthusiasts soon become collectors.

Bowl, Agate China, Qing Dynasty 1850-1920 Baur Foundation
Bowl, Agate
China, Qing Dynasty
1850-1920
Baur Foundation

After that, Alfred Baur embarked on a great journey in Asia, which would give rise to a passion and then an exceptional collection.

Tourmaline tobacco bottle, Qing dynasty China, late 19th century Baur Foundation
Tobacco bottle
Tourmaline, Qing Dynasty China, Late 19th century
Baur Foundation

Similarly, the Joaillier Cartier I feel this curiosity, this taste in fact. This is how Chinese or Japanese-style creations emerge.

Buddha Gold, Rose Quartz, Jade, Lapis Lazuli, Cartier Diamonds 1928
Buddha
Or, Quartz, Jade, Lapis-Lazuli, Diamonds
Cartier 1928

In this spirit, we encounter two conceptions: the first one incorporates genuine Chinese or Japanese elements; the second one, whose Asian style is entirely realized by Cartier.

Clockwork Pot with Chinese Brushes in Agate from the late 19th century with Lapis Lazuli, Citrine and Cartier Gold 1927
Clock
Chinese brush holder in Agate from the late 19th century. Lapis-Lazuli, Citrine, Gold
Cartier 1927
Bracelet Deux Chimères Platine, Gold, Diamonds, Emeralds, Coral Cartier 1961
Bracelet Two Chimères
Platinum, Gold, Diamonds, Emeralds, Coral
Cartier 1961

Moreover, the Chinese or Japanese designs so closely resemble the aesthetics of the jeweler that they serve as a general decoration for the enamel or engraved gold used for the boxes. We will therefore find these geometric patterns or cloud motifs.

Or Cigarette Case, Enamel, Agate, Sapphires Cartier 1928
Cigarette case
Or, enamel, agate, sapphires
Cartier 1928
Porcelain Meandering Motif Plate Painted with Glazes China, Qing Dynasty, 1723-1735 Baur Foundation
Meandering motif plate
Painted porcelain with enamels
China, Qing dynasty, 1723-1735
Baur Foundation

It should not be forgotten that at this time House Cartier He successfully produced the so-called mysterious pendulums. The mechanism for driving the needles is hidden in the engraved stone; the object is beautiful and also useful. The pendulums could suggest a Shintoist temple.

Mysterious Pendulum Crystal Portal of Rock, Onyx, Diamonds, Coral, Gold, Platinum Cartier 1923
Mysterious Pendulum Porch
Crystal of Roche, Onyx, Diamonds, Coral, Gold, Platinum
Cartier 1923

Perhaps more subtle is the inspiration of the inrô. This small Japanese male box, the Inrô was practical; you could put all kinds of personal items in it because kimono were without pockets. Note that the object has compartments that are held together by a cord. Notably, Cartier adapted the shape of the inrô, rectangular or cylindrical, for necessities.

Inrô motif Phoenix Lacquer, Japanese Nacre, 19th century, Foundation Baur
Inrô motif Phoenix
Lacquer, Nacre
Japan 19th century
Baur Foundation
Inrô motif cockerel Japanese period Edo 1722 Black lacquer, gold sequins Foundation Baur
Inrô motif perroquet
Japanese Edo period 1722
Black lacquer, gold sequins
Baur Foundation

Since inside this case, there is a mirror on the lid, two powder compartments and a blush palette, and a lipstick case in the center.

Necessary Or Rose, Yellow Gold, Diamonds, Enamel Pagode. Cartier 1927
Necessary Pagode
Gold, Rose, Yellow, Diamonds, Enamel.
Cartier 1927
Or, Jade, Lapis-Lazuli, Turquoise, Diamonds, Cartier enamel 1930
Cigarette case
Or, Jade, Lapis-Lazuli, Turquoise, Diamonds, Enamel
Cartier 1930

Moreover, the diamond-studded jewelry also incorporates these Chinese motifs, wonderful flowers and beasts where the birds sing from a place far away.

Platinum Bird Brooch, Gold, Cartier Diamonds 1948
Bird Brooch
Platinum, Gold, Diamonds
Cartier 1948
Platinum Bracelet, Diamonds, Emeralds, Rubies, Onyx Cartier 1926
Bracelet
Platinum, Diamonds, Emeralds, Ruby, Onyx
Cartier 1926
Plat Motif de prunus family rose Foundation Baur XVIIIth century
Plat Motif of the rose family prunus
Baur Foundation 18th century
Petal brooch with diamonds, yellow diamonds, coral, emeralds, gold, platinum Cartier 1969
Parrot brooch
Diamonds, Yellow Diamonds, Corals, Emeralds, Gold, Platinum
Cartier 1969

To conclude this visit, the treasures of the Baur Foundation find an echo in the creations of the House Cartier. It is a fascinating cultural encounter where the fragrances of Asia continue to inspire us on a daily basis.

ASIA A DREAM IN THE BAUR AND CARTIER COLLECTIONS

From November 12, 2015 to February 14, 2016
Baur Foundation, Museum of the Arts of the Far East
8 rue Munier-Romilly
1206 Geneva

fondation-baur.ch

Photos Credits Baur Foundation

Platinum bracelet composed of 10 pendants with a Japanese inspiration. Cartier 1942
Platinum bracelet composed of 10 pendants with a Japanese inspiration.
Cartier 1942
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Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
The author

Charlotte Wannebroucq

Gemmologist expert, member of the CNE-Art, and expert in signed jewelry. Twenty-five years of experience at the heart of Parisian jewelry, between the Carré Rive Gauche and Place Vendôme.
She signs the decryptions of collections, the analyses of stones and the estimates published in Esprit Joaillerie. Each piece commented on is examined in person, in the workshop, in the sales room or in the showroom.
  • Expertise

    Gemmology and signed jewellery

  • Member

    CNE-Art

  • Experience

    Over 25 years in Parisian jewellery