Independent media since 2014
by Charlotte Wannebroucq · CNE Accredited Gemmologist

THE SPECTACULAR COLLECTION AL THANI

Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
Founder and Editor-in-Chief
Updated on December 4
Updated on 4 December 2022
COLLECTION AL THANI

COLLECTION AL THANI

The Victoria and Albert Museum presents us with the spectacular Al Thani collection «Bejewelled treasures».

Sheikh Hamad bin Abdullah Al Thani has assembled a vast collection of jewels. Indian art and the Mughal emperors have fascinated this man.
More than a hundred Indian-themed or Indian-inspired objects are gathered in London. Let’s take a little tour of this treasure together.

© V&A Museum The Al Thani Collection

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM JEWELLERY SPIRIT 47

The precious stones are magnificent, both in terms of their weight and their color. They leave us dreaming...

The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

Until the 18th century, the historical mines of Golcondes in India offered exceptional diamonds in size and purity. The Mughal emperors sought out these incomparable stones.

Diamond "The Arcot II" © V&A Museum
Diamond » The Arcot II »
© V&A Museum
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

For centuries in India, fine pearls were threaded into very long necklaces worn by the maharadjas.
Under Mughal rule, pearls were mixed with emeralds and spinels. These necklaces represented the emblem of royalty.

Emerald Necklace, Fine Pearls The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Emerald Necklace, Fine Pearls
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Spinelles Necklace, Pearls, Emerald The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Spinelle necklace, beads, emerald
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

The jewelry and Indian objects reflect the splendor and wealth of that period.

Comparable to no other country, India is adorned with jewels. Almost every part of the body has its own jewels: anklets, belts, rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, nose jewelry, head jewelry…

An emblematic jewel of India, the «Sarpesh».
The Maharadjas adorned their turban with sarpesh (Sar the head and Pesh the fastener).

The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

Feathers in diamonds and feathers.

The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

19th-century Sarpesh in gold and silver, set with diamonds and spinels.
The stones are valued using the Kundan technique. This characteristic jewelry method, originating from Rajasthan, involves inserting a gold leaf between each gem and the setting.

The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM JEWELLERY SPIRIT 52

Gold diamond and ruby bracelet with the kundan technique.

The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

Around the mid-17th century, enamel appeared on Indian jewelry. It is perhaps the Portuguese state of Goa that is responsible for the European technique of enamelling Mughal jewelry. Elaborate elements, often featuring a white background with red and green flowers, can be found on many jewelry pieces.

Pair of gold bracelets, enamel, rubies, spinels, diamonds and pearls.

The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

The objects are also inlaid with precious stones (Kundan technique); this is a sign of wealth and power. Besides diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and spinels, many jade objects can be found. The Mogul culture transfers magical power to jade. From Babur (founder of the Mogul dynasty) to Shah Jahân, jade is considered the stone of victory.

Dague and Fourreau Jade, Emeralds, Ruby Around 1615 The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Dague and Fourreau
Jade, Emeralds, Ruby
Around 1615
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Jade handle, Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds XVIIIth century The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Handgrip
Jade, Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds
18th century
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Jade Vase, Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds 19th century The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Vase
Jade, Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds
19th century
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

What can be said of this remnant of the throne of Tipû Sultân, a fierce opponent of English domination?.

Element of the Throne of Tipû Sultân Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, XVIIIth century gold The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Element of the Throne of Tipû Sultân
Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, Gold
18th century
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

Let's finish with the creations of great jewelers that these Indian jewels have been able to inspire.

Brooch Paul Iribe & Robert Linzeler Emerald Colombia, Diamonds, Sapphires, Pearls, Platinum 1910 The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Broch by Paul Iribe & Robert Linzeler
Emerald Colombia, Diamonds, Sapphires, Pearls, Platinum
1910
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Cartier Emerald brooch, Sapphires, Diamonds, Gold, Platinum 1922 The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Cartier brooch
Emeralds, Sapphires, Diamonds, Gold, Platinum
1922
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Bijou of Turban Maharaja of Nawanagar Sapphire, Diamonds, Platinum Around 1930 The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Bijou of Turban Maharaja of Nawanagar
Sapphire, Diamonds, Platinum
Around 1930
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Anonyme head jewel Diamonds, Rubies, Platinum 1935 The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
An anonymous head jewel
Diamonds, Rubies, Platinum
1935
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Earrings Jar Spinel, Pearls, Diamonds, Gold, Silver 2010 The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Jar Earrings
Spinel, Pearls, Diamonds, Gold, Silver
2010
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Bhagat Diamond Earrings, Pearls, Platinum 2012 The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Bhagat Earrings
Diamonds, Pearls, Platinum
2012
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Brooch Viren Bhagat Diamonds, beads, platinum 2014 The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
Broche Viren Bhagat
Diamonds, pearls, platinum
2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

The Victorian & Albert Museum opens a very beautiful showcase where we discover a spectacle of colors, stones, jewels and history. To be dazzled by the light!

The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014
The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014

21 November 2015 – 28 March 2016
Victoria and Albert Museum
Cromwell Rd, London, UK

www.vam.ac.uk

Photos credits Victoria & Albert Museum

Partner

Buy a piece of jewellery appraised online by our firm

Discover
Related signatures
Topics
Share
LinkedIn
Pinterest
Facebook
Email
Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
The author

Charlotte Wannebroucq

Gemmologist expert, member of the CNE-Art, and expert in signed jewelry. Twenty-five years of experience at the heart of Parisian jewelry, between the Carré Rive Gauche and Place Vendôme.
She signs the decryptions of collections, the analyses of stones and the estimates published in Esprit Joaillerie. Each piece commented on is examined in person, in the workshop, in the sales room or in the showroom.
  • Expertise

    Gemmology and signed jewellery

  • Member

    CNE-Art

  • Experience

    Over 25 years in Parisian jewellery