Independent media since 2014
by Charlotte Wannebroucq · CNE Accredited Gemmologist

THE ENLUMINATIONS JEWELRY OF THE RENAISSANCE COURTS

For this edition, among the manuscripts that make the Les Enluminures house famous, Sandra Hindman reserves a new surprise: an exhibition of sixteen remarkable jewels once worn by the European elite.
Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
Founder and Editor-in-Chief
Updated on November 8th
Updated on November 8, 2022
THE ENLUMINATIONS JEWELRY OF THE RENAISSANCE COURTS

On the occasion of the next edition of Tefaf Maastricht, Les Enluminures will present new wonders.

The Illuminations

It should be noted that for this edition, among the manuscripts that make the house famous, Sandra Hindman It holds a new surprise. An exhibition of sixteen remarkable jewels, once worn by the European elite. Thus, one will see necklaces, rings, and amulets.
Esprit Joaillerie gives you a sneak peek at this treasure in advance.

Cameleon Pendant Representing King Henry IV
Cameleon Pendant Representing King Henry IV
Nacre, Tortoise Shell, Silver.
France, late 16th century
© Les Enluminures

First of all, this pendant depicts King Henry IV of France, which is three quarters complete. It should be noted that the engraved gems and medals played an important role in his artistic patronage. He is directly responsible for the core of the Royal Collection of the Cabinet of Medals in Paris.

Ruban Saxonne channel.
Money.
Germany Debut XVI.
© Les Enluminures

Mention should be made of this massive chain in the shape of a ribbon, composed of forty-six oval links in gold-plated silver.
These chains are surprisingly rare today. Because as fashions change, they are often melted down and reused for new jewelry.
Furthermore, another well-known example of a ribbon chain can be found at the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum in Munich.
Thus, popular among the German aristocracy, wealthy patricians and the merchant classes, these necklaces are frequently depicted in the paintings of German artists such as Lucas Cranach the Elder.
A scientific analysis of this necklace proves that the metal used dates back to the 16th century.

Let’s continue with this ring. The story surrounding it is also linked to the Second World War. In fact, it once belonged to Baron Maurice de Rothschild (1881-1957), one of the richest men in France. Then in 1940, when the Nazis occupied Paris, the Rothschild art collection was looted and the ring disappeared.
So much so that from Jeu de Paume in Paris to Lager Peter in Austria and finally to Munich, this gimmel ring has had a long and arduous journey. Finally, it was returned to the Rothschild family after the war. 

Gimmel ring
Gimmel ring.
Ruby, Diamond, Email, Gold.
Europe Around 1560-1580.
© Les Enluminures

Here is a testimony of the link between the goldsmith’s workshop and the sculptor of the High Renaissance.
As illustrated by this delicate gold chain. It is composed of scalloped pearls enamelled in white, the satyr in gold, adorned with a diamond, displaying all the monumentalism of the bronze statues half-human, half-animal. This work is attributed to Andrea Riccio and his circle, a contemporary master sculptor of Michelangelo’s caliber.
Indeed, from the most complex design to the most beautiful finish, it is a piece of remarkable rarity.

Furthermore, Sandra Hindman And Beatriz Chadour-Sampson also offers a book presenting these wonders: «Living Nobly».

The Enluminures Tefaf Maastricht 2020
Saturday March 7 to Sunday 15, 2020
Stand #276

MECC, Forum 100 6229 GV Maastricht Netherlands

LesEnluminures.com

 
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Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
The author

Charlotte Wannebroucq

Gemmologist expert, member of the CNE-Art, and expert in signed jewelry. Twenty-five years of experience at the heart of Parisian jewelry, between the Carré Rive Gauche and Place Vendôme.
She signs the decryptions of collections, the analyses of stones and the estimates published in Esprit Joaillerie. Each piece commented on is examined in person, in the workshop, in the sales room or in the showroom.
  • Expertise

    Gemmology and signed jewellery

  • Member

    CNE-Art

  • Experience

    Over 25 years in Parisian jewellery