It was thanks to a lovely Brussels meeting that Esprit Joaillerie was able to get to know the jeweler Wolfers a little better.
To begin with, it should be noted that the jeweller-gemmologist Wolfers is a genius creator, an innovator and an emblematic figure of Art Nouveau in Brussels.

© Esprit Joaillerie
It was in 1812 that the Wolfers, renowned goldsmiths from Linden (Germany), settled in Brussels to practice their art of jewelry making. A craft that dates back to the 16th century, according to some.

Thus, Louis and Guillaume Wolfers They offer innovative pieces of silverware and table art. Soon, they want to present a different production. To do this, the objects are of very high quality, innovative, while still remaining identifiable from the Louis workshop. Wolfers Father and Son. Their workshop is already one of the most flourishing in the country.
Louis Wolfers he places his master’s mark, the seal of success: a capital W surmounted by a head of a boar. Later, at the end of the 19th century, Louis's son, Philippe Wolfers, Orfèvre and jeweler, industrial designer, he is on his way towards pure art. He is known for his ornamental and monumental creations (he had created a massive silver object measuring over 1 meter long and 55 cm high, a centerpiece table «especially designed by Colin-Maillard»).

It should be noted that in 1894, he participated in the Universal Exhibition in Antwerp.

© Source Galica bnf.fr / National Library of France
This artistic début was crowned with success. As a result, the exhibition at the Cercle artistique et littéraire de Bruxelles brought him international fame.
Therefore, it is at this point that the « Wolfers style« .
A motif that is not used as a decoration but that will determine the shape of the object.
Philippe Wolfers creates new, original and delicate forms, presenting dazzling Art Nouveau jewelry. As a result, his sculptures and jewelry earn him the title of «Belgian René Lalique».
Philippe Wolfers creates silver jewelry characterized by the fine carving of the metal. To emphasize the detail, often the fine stones are small. For the designs, they are taken from the animal kingdom and will determine the shape of the jewelry. As here with this loop The Day and the Night, which shows the two sides of a day, a bat and a butterfly face to face, reversed. These new, modern pieces have great potential. Therefore, Philippe Wolfers continues his creations by abandoning money for gold.

«The Day and the Night»
Philippe Wolfers 1898
© Esprit Joaillerie
Gold was used in two ways: either as the structure of the jewel, whose metal accentuates the design, or as a sculptural element.
The precious stones are decisive as well; they set the tone. He prefers rare gems and unique colors like opals, and the diversity of colors and play of shadows fascinates the creator. Moreover, the enamel technique also allows him to keep up with the international trends in art nouveau jewelry.

«Plume de Paon»
Philippe Wolfers 1898
© Esprit Joaillerie

Philippe Wolfers
Belgium
1902-1903
Or, Email, Ruby, Opal, Diamond.
Former Marcel Wolfers collection
Coll. Foundation King Baudouin

Around 1900
Or, Email, Diamonds, Rubies
© Sotheby’s
Subsequently, in 1909 the House Wolfers It is located on rue d’Aremberg. It was Victor Horta, the famous Art Nouveau architect, who designed and created the interior.

©Esprit Joaillerie
The House Wolfers continues to develop its art of goldsmithing and jewelry. In the 1970s, the famous Maison Chaumet establishes a partnership with the Maison Wolfers, A partnership that will last for a decade. Today, the artisans’ experience and know-how Wolfers They continue to take care of the old pieces, while also looking to the future with new creations.

©Esprit Joaillerie

Finally, it is a constant pursuit of artistic and technical perfection that continues, while reaffirming the style. Wolfers.
My warm thanks to Patricia Savi and Patrick Descamps.
Wolfers
1 Boulevard de Waterloo 1000 Brussels