Independent media since 2014
by Charlotte Wannebroucq · CNE Accredited Gemmologist

THE MOUNT FOR 4000 YEARS OF HISTORY

Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
Founder and Editor-in-Chief
Updated on September 16
Updated on 16 September 2026
LE FERMOIR 4000 YEARS OF HISTORY

The clasp 4000 years of history.
First of all, it is an exciting work to discover, The clasp 4000 years of history is a bible of jewelry, a must-have.

There are days that remain etched in memory by the images and words of a very beautiful book; to share this discovery, here is an exceptional preview for Esprit Joaillerie, the book’s presentation.
The Lock in Jewelry, 4000 Years of History.
 Anna Tabakhova, Its author takes the time for an interview to discover a little more about this indispensable work.

© anna tabakhova
© anna tabakhova

First of all, we emphasize that this passionate, curious, and inquisitive woman focuses her gaze on an essential element of jewelry that has never been studied for such a long period of time and around the world: the clasp.
And yet, what adventures are there around this accessory!

Thus, Anna faces the challenge of transmitting 4,000 years of history of the clasp. From the Bronze Age to Place Vendôme, from the artist’s jewel to the couture jewel, from the regional jewel to the fantasy jewel, and a little tour of the world of clasps.

© anna tabakhova
© anna tabakhova

It must be said that this is four millennia of ingenuity at work in the service of jewelry, revealed and illustrated with never-before-seen photos. To this end, 12 museums have opened their showcases, jewelers have revealed their archives for the first time, and contemporary jewelry designers have created clasps on this occasion.
There is no doubt that this work is a veritable bible with multiple sources. Indeed, 32 historians were consulted, 22 museums were involved, 76 jewelry designers, jewelers, artists, and creators from 30 countries contributed.. Furthermore, this book is complemented by 6 studio interviews, the jewel in the painting and sculpture, a historical background, and a glossary enriched with 28 original sketches.

© anna tabakhova
© anna tabakhova

Anna, how did the idea for this book come to you?

To be honest, it was with my own interchangeable clasp jewelry that I began to document this story. It was 10 years ago now.

What is a fastener to you?

There is no doubt that the clasp is a «workshop». That is to say, it is a concentrated collection of unique finds, and it is also the place where the master jeweler demonstrates his expertise and excellence.

What do you like about a clasp?

So to speak, to discover its functioning. For example, I started with the observation of antique jewelry in museums. Then I did an exploration, reading original works by archaeologists, some dating back to 1934. In fact, discovering the origin of the clapper box is fascinating.

Among the antique clasps, which one has left the deepest impression on you?

We mention the discovery with the curator of Egyptian antiquities of Louvre Museum of the operation of an ancient Egyptian pendant clasp that is nearly 4000 years old and that had never been studied until now!

A clasp that you think of?

Like that of jeweler Jean Christophe, who designed a fastener for the book. It is the fastener Helicopter, This is an ingenious, ingenious, fun and functional clasp. Also, I included a report on its manufacture.

Jean Christophe's Helico clasp © anna tabakhova
Jean Christophe's Helico clasp
© anna tabakhova

How did you choose to organize your presentation of the fasteners over such a long period of time?

To attract attention, I organized it around five chapters. First of all The remarkable zippers, Then, the pendant clasps, followed by The jewel of transformation (because it is always a matter of opening and closing), not forgetting the Removable clasp and finally, close without fasteners.

Draft of the glossary © anna tabakhova
Sketch of the glossary created by Thierry Anfray
© anna tabakhova

What can be said about the high-jewellery clasp?

In this regard, Place Vendôme is represented throughout the chapters. Therefore, it is possible to cite the famous necklace Zip of Van Cleef & Arpels, the jewelry without clasps by Mademoiselle Chanel. But also, Cartier, Boucheron and Meller, also called Mellerio, as well as Wallace Chan in Hong Kong. I am also thinking of the House Hermès with an exclusive interview dedicated to their conception of the clasp.

And the contemporary clasp?

Several designers are designing innovative clasps or skillfully reinterpret antique clasps. In other words, maneuverability is an important criterion in the 21st century.e century. Jewelry designers, designers, plastic artists and creators of contemporary jewelry from all over the world are widely represented throughout the book.

Puzzle clasp by Petr Dvorak © anna tabakhova
Puzzle clasp by Petr Dvorak
© anna tabakhova

Overall, enthusiastic and meticulous Anna Tabakhova She conceives her book in the same way she conceives her jewelry. «A beautiful idea, a beautiful material and a beautiful realization. I wanted it to be a practical manual, combined with a historical study, presented in the elegant format of a 288-page art book with 356 color illustrations.« .

Dear Anna, thank you for this moment that makes us want to learn more about these clasps. Your art book is in press and will be published in October. Also, it is available for pre-order exclusively on the publisher’s website:

                          http://www.editions-terracol.com/fr/

To conclude, we offer you a riddle: Esprit Joaillerie will, like many of your readers, be looking for the second part of this clasp; so head over to this superb book to find the answer.

© anna tabakhova
© anna tabakhova

www.histoire-du-fermoir.com/

Anna Tabakhova will also be present at the Salon of My Jewellery Designers, From November 18 to 21, 2016 at the’Hotel of Industry, To dedicate it.

© anna tabakhova
© anna tabakhova

Any reproduction is prohibited without the author’s permission.
All rights reserved - Reproduction without permission prohibited.

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Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
The author

Charlotte Wannebroucq

Gemmologist expert, member of the CNE-Art, and expert in signed jewelry. Twenty-five years of experience at the heart of Parisian jewelry, between the Carré Rive Gauche and Place Vendôme.
She signs the decryptions of collections, the analyses of stones and the estimates published in Esprit Joaillerie. Each piece commented on is examined in person, in the workshop, in the sales room or in the showroom.
  • Expertise

    Gemmology and signed jewellery

  • Member

    CNE-Art

  • Experience

    Over 25 years in Parisian jewellery