On the occasion of the Bijorhca PARIS fair in January, Esprit Joaillerie met the jewelry designer Laurence Oppermann.
Laurence shares with us her vision of the artist’s jewel. Bold, she transforms the material into a sculptural form.
© Esprit Joaillerie
How did you become a jewelry designer?
After a classical course of study, I pursued studies in design and graphic design, but I quickly realized that I lacked a connection with the material. I enrolled in the School of Decorative Arts in Geneva (ENSAD) to learn how to develop a complete creative process.
For three years, I was able to discover metal and became passionate about this raw material.
Starting with a plate or a wire and watching the metal transform is captivating and rewarding. When forging, you see the hammer’s imprint and the material changing in volume.
Forging and hammering, gestures that I deeply enjoy and that have led me to make them my specialty and to establish myself as a jewelry designer.
© Laurence Oppermann
Could you introduce us to one of your creations?
The «Fil du Temps» ring. This ring is composed of two gold hemispheres forged and hammered together by a knitted gold thread. This creation is both voluminous and lightweight to wear. I particularly appreciate the representation of time in this creation, the mobility and its relationship to the body. This jewel is the union of artistic development and a perfect mastery of forging and hammering techniques.
This is a skill that forms the signature of my creations.
Knitted gold thread.
© Esprit Joaillerie
What does the jewel represent to you?
The jewel is a sculpture; it is a unique object that represents the person who wears it and who lives within the person. I like that this jewel is strong; it has weight. I like to feel its presence.
Do you have a favorite stone?
I love diamonds, raw diamonds, old sizes, rose sizes. I love the diamond for its brilliance, which enhances sculptural and architectural forms. Just like metal, I love this symbol of hardness.
© Laurence Oppermann
What triggered your desire to exhibit at Bijorhca PARIS?
First of all, my meeting with Francis Van de Walle at the last Revelations exhibition, and also the desire to «take the next step» after Hélène Courtaigne Delalande and Jean Boggio, who are two creators I appreciate for their personalities and their very specific and different universes from what I had seen at that exhibition. Thus, I seized this opportunity to exhibit and showcase my creative work, which brings about a change by giving a place to unique pieces.
© Laurence Oppermann
What does the Bijorhca PARIS salon represent for you?
Of course, this is a historical event. This event brings together all the sectors of the industry, from fantasy to jewelry, which is growing every year.
© Esprit Joaillerie
How do you feel about the sector of designer jewelry?
It is a passionate sector, which should be better represented and recognized by professionals and the general public. A niche sector, aimed at an elite clientele, that is gaining momentum over the years. The clientele is attracted by the artistic approach and approach that is extremely varied in terms of shapes and materials, allowing people to wear unique and truly personal pieces.
Dear Laurence, thank you for introducing us to your rich world, a world of creators.
