Capucine H, the ethical brilliance of modern jewelry.
Let’s dive into the fascinating world of Capucine H, a French jewelry designer. As a visionary designer, she combines elegance and commitment, raising awareness about the fragility of our planet. Through collaborations with scientists and explorations of the most remote lands, she translates environmental issues into jewelry that has become true visual narratives. Recently hailed by the TIMELESS JEWELS® exhibition with the L’ALCHIMISTE award, a testament to her remarkable craftsmanship.
His work goes beyond aesthetics, subtly inviting dialogue about the imperative to preserve our environment. Let’s explore together his ethical creations and his creative process.
Dear Capucine, how did your passion for jewelry come about?
Hello Charlotte, thank you for having me!
My passion for jewelry was born very quickly; I was a little girl who was passionate about stones; I collected them and was very proud of it!
I think I was fascinated by the physical/chemical aspect, the fact that Nature manages to create such things!
And then gradually the pebbles drifted towards the precious stones.
Besides that, I was very creative; I drew a lot, imagined fantastic worlds, and so around the age of 8 or so, I discovered that there was a profession that combined these two passions: being a jeweler!
I also had a crazy opportunity: I got the chance to do my third-year internship at Van Cleef & Arpels. From the very first day, I went home and told my parents: «It’s decided, I’ll do this for the rest of my life!»
This internship instantly confirmed my love for the jewelry industry!
Recycled 18k Gold and Silver, Quartz, Spinels, Sapphires, Tourmalines, Diamonds
Photo by Patrice Maurein
© Capucine H
Can you tell us about your career?
Even though I knew very early on what I wanted to do, I wanted to take my Baccalauréat in Sciences. In fact, now I still find my fascination for the sciences in my work. Then, I went on to study jewelry making for 4 years at the Haute Ecole de Joaillerie. There, I learned the codes and techniques of jewelry making, with the French standard of excellence! It was an extremely comprehensive education, with internships and partnerships with the major houses on Place Vendôme (Cartier, Hermès, etc.).
After that, I realized that I wanted to push the boundaries of jewelry design. So I went on to do a Master’s in Design at Central Saint Martins School in London. There, I really developed my thinking on jewelry as a vehicle for a message and the ethics in this field. It was hard, but I learned so much from it!
Then, I decided to start my own business after school. I think I had put too much effort into the subjects I had studied in London and I wanted to continue in that direction!
You defend nature and the planet. Can you explain to us how this will is expressed in your jewelry?
Yes, for each collection I try to focus on a topic related to the protection of nature: the melting of the ice caps, phytoplankton, the protection of bees, etc. Once the topic is chosen, I will get in touch with scientists, biologists, and glaciologists to learn more and understand all the ins and outs of the topic.
I even went on an expedition to the Arctic to study the melting of the ice caps!
Then, during the design phase, I try to bring the key words, the scientific data, and everything that seemed important to me to life. And I try to convey it in my creations.
The purpose of my jewelry is to open up the dialogue. But also to represent our values and our love for nature; I call them my climate talismans.
Of course, this desire to protect the planet is also expressed in the choice of materials (recycled gold, old diamonds, stones sourced in a responsible manner) or in the manufacturing process (everything is made in Paris in a short circuit, on request).
I also donate part of my profits every month to Climeworks, a company that captures carbon.
What was the trigger?
Honestly, I don’t remember a single trigger; my ecological conscience grew little by little within me… I was lucky enough to travel a lot with my family when I was younger. And I clearly remember that feeling where you say to yourself, «Wow, nature is so powerful, so beautiful; it created absolutely incredible things all around the planet, and it’s up to all of us to protect it.».
What is the first piece of jewelry you made?
The very first one?
Probably a beaded bracelet or some noodles for my mom!
And the first jewel of my brand is the ring Isfjell, It symbolizes an iceberg that is undergoing erosion and turning around its own finger!
Can you introduce us to 2 creations of your choice, explaining why?
Of course! I’ll introduce you to two of my most spectacular pieces, which both form part of the collection. Thethys related to phytoplankton. First of all, I would like to introduce you to the brooch Foraminifera. The Foraminifera are a category of plankton made up of limestone shells. Unfortunately, due to the acidification of the oceans, the shells of the plankton deteriorate, which is symbolized in this brooch by orange-yellow sapphires that give the impression of coming to devour the brooch and heading towards its heart, a sublime citrine carved on a work of art!
Photo of Broche Foraminifera daragh soden
© Capucine H
The other piece I want to present to you is also a brooch, named Cristellaria Echinata. This name is the name of a plankton that takes on this spiral shape. The centerpiece stone is a 100-carat topaz whose color evokes the waters of a river, and all the work around the diamonds and white sapphires symbolizes the photosynthesis performed by the phytoplankton!
This brooch has indeed recently won the L’Alchimiste du Savoir-faire award!
Do you have any anecdotes related to one of your creations?
I have plenty of them! If I had to choose one, I would talk about the Broken Snowflake ring, because it’s very current! It’s a ring that symbolizes the gradual melting of a snowflake. To make it, I studied a snowflake melting in a microscope; I made a timelapse of it that I cut into 15 stages; the ring is therefore built with these 15 successive layers that symbolize the disappearance of the snowflake. This ring was in a magazine last year, and the Maison du Chocolat team came across it! After that, they contacted me to design their 2023 Christmas collection around the snowflake! We collaborated for a year to bring this project to life, and it was a very rewarding experience! This ring has therefore brought me a completely new collaboration!
Is there a jeweler who inspires you? Why?
Olaaaa, there are so many of them! I admire Bibi van der Velden for the poetry of her creations, Austy Lee for her crazy imagination, Boucheron for their audacity in terms of materials and techniques, or Fernando Jorge for his perfect lines!
Brooch Cristellaria Echinata
Prix L’Alchimiste 2023 Savoir-Faire
Photo Esprit Joaillerie
What is your favorite stone?
Sorry, I can’t choose! I absolutely adore admiring opals because they are absolutely unique. It really feels like they are a magical stone! Unfortunately, they are technically challenging stones.
I love sapphires, they are stones with a beautiful shine, solid, and come in an infinite variety of colors! And I would say that my little weakness is brown diamonds; I find them fascinating, and I regret that we don’t see more of them…
A reading that you haven’t forgotten?
La Panthère by Stéphanie des Horts! It’s a book that tells the story of Jeanne Toussaint, artistic director of Cartier; when I was little, it was my Bible!
And if we move away from jewelry, I like dystopian novels like 1984 by George Orwell or
The Red Handmaid by Margaret Atwood.
What can I wish you?
Lots of projects! I like to live at 100% speed and have a brain that’s bursting with ideas!
And also beautiful encounters, new scientists, new artisans, new collaborations.
All these encounters allow me to move forward and to feel excited by doing what I enjoy doing!
Dear Capucine, your visionary creativity inspires. Your commitment to environmental preservation leaves a valuable imprint. Thank you for sharing your captivating story with us.
