Independent media since 2014
by Charlotte Wannebroucq · CNE Accredited Gemmologist

HEMMERLE JEWELS

Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
Founder and Editor-in-Chief
Updated on February 5
Updated on 5 February 2023
HEMMERLE

Hemmerle Jewels of art jewelry.
Let us emphasize here that Bijoux Hemmerle They are designed as works of art.

It should be noted that this House has over 120 years of history, which gives it solid expertise and current design principles. Moreover, the four generations share a philosophy that is enriching, evolving, and where freedom and the conviction to push the boundaries of creative expression are at the heart of their thinking.

Thus, his story begins as a manufacturer of medals for the Bavarian royalty, then for the Vatican. The Jugendstil and the 1900 Universal Exposition highlight his talent. The influence of German artistic movements such as the Bauhaus is evident. In this spirit, the jeweler learns to draw inspiration from the past and the present, applying an innovative and daring perspective.

Diamond ring, Steel, White gold © Hemmerle
Diamond ring, Steel, White gold
© Hemmerle

It is undeniable that in 1995 the house took a turn. So, Stefan Hemmerle and his wife Sylveli decided to break with the past and turn the jewel into a true work of contemporary art.

While respecting their family heritage and the traditions of jewelry making, Stefan and Sylveli offer jewelry with avant-garde aesthetics and bold modernity. This inspiration is accompanied by cultural references to art, architecture, and craftsmanship.
It should be noted that this creative concept follows a philosophy initiated by a client’s order. More specifically, it was a collector of fine art who loved flashy gems that triggered the idea.
So this client shows examples of jewelry made of Berlin iron from the early 19th century. These are neo-classical and architectural cast-iron ornaments. These jewels are worn by German patriots in place of gold, which they donated to the war effort during the War of Liberation, 1813-15.
After that, Stefan Hemmerle decided to embed an important diamond in a textured iron ring.

Drawing Pendant 1895 © Hemmerle
Drawing Pendant 1895

Nowadays, the jeweler Hemmerle They continue to create exceptional pieces. Unexpected materials such as copper, steel or wood are brought to life by colored stones.
This is how all the jewelry is made in-house, in Hemmerle’s sole workshop.
In other words, it is the only place where master artisans continue to research and develop stone patinas and stone setting techniques. For it is necessary to find a balance between the traditional techniques passed down from generation to generation and the thorough experimentation of new processes.
In particular, Hemmerle constantly challenges his craft to break through the self-imposed limits and open up new possibilities. No constraints are imposed on the time it takes to create each creation, with more than 500 hours of expertise often dedicated to a single jewel.

Hemmerle

Diamond Ring, Bronze, Gold Hemmerle
Ring
Diamond, Bronze, Gold
Antique Camée Earrings, Moonstone, Copper, White Gold © Hemmerle
Earrings
Antique cameo, Moonstone, Copper, White Gold

 

Diamond Earrings, Silver, or © Hemmerle
Earrings
Diamonds, Silver, or

 

Ruby Earrings, Rose Sapphires, Gold © Hemmerle
Earrings
Ruby, Sapphires, Roses, Gold

 

Tsavorite Garnet Bracelet, Copper, Gold Hemmerle
Bracelet
Tsavorite Garnets, Copper, Gold
Palm Tree Bracelet, Diamonds, Silver, White Gold © Hemmerle
Bracelet
Palm Wood, Diamonds, Silver, White Gold
Citrine Earrings with Mother-of-pearl, Cornalines, Copper, Gold © Hemmerle
Earrings
Citrines, Madures, Cornalines, Copper, Gold
Green Garnet Earrings, Dinosaur Bones, Copper, White Gold © Hemmerle
Earrings
Spessartite Garnets, Dinosaur Bones, Copper, White Gold

 

Moonstone Necklace, Gold © Hemmerle
Collier
Pearls of the Moon, Gold

To conclude, Hemmerle combines the vocabulary of sculpture with the functional requirements of jewelry design to create unique pieces. The combinations of surprising materials, rare woods, found objects, and patinas give these jewelry a lasting and timeless dimension that distinguishes Hermmmerle.

Spinelle brooch, Garnets, Copper, Gold © Hemmerle
Brooch
Spinels, Garnets, Copper, Gold
© Hemmerle

 

Brooch of Sapphires, Garnets, Copper, Bronze, Silver, Gold © Hemmerle
Brooch
Sapphires, Garnets, Copper, Bronze, Silver, Gold
© Hemmerle

Hemmerle
14 Maximilianstrasse
80539 Munich

hemmerle.com

Photos Credits © Hemmerle

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Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
The author

Charlotte Wannebroucq

Gemmologist expert, member of the CNE-Art, and expert in signed jewelry. Twenty-five years of experience at the heart of Parisian jewelry, between the Carré Rive Gauche and Place Vendôme.
She signs the decryptions of collections, the analyses of stones and the estimates published in Esprit Joaillerie. Each piece commented on is examined in person, in the workshop, in the sales room or in the showroom.
  • Expertise

    Gemmology and signed jewellery

  • Member

    CNE-Art

  • Experience

    Over 25 years in Parisian jewellery