Independent media since 2014
by Charlotte Wannebroucq · CNE Accredited Gemmologist

FRANÇOISE CAILLES EXPERT IN BOIVIN

Finally, I ended up becoming an expert by chance. An editor asked me to write a book about jewelry.
Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
Founder and Editor-in-Chief
Updated on March 8
Updated on March 8, 2023
FRANÇOISE CAILLES

Françoise Cailles Expert at the jeweler Boivin
For this article, I would like to introduce you to the renowned Françoise Cailles, the expert on Jeweler Boivin. Also eAn expert in antique jewelry, she takes the time to talk to us about her passion for stones and jewelry. Also, I leave you with the opportunity to discover her journey.

Françoise Cailles Expert at the jewelry store Boivin Clip d'Oreilles René Boivin Citrines, Diamonds, Gold 1940
Françoise Cailles Expert at the jewelry store Boivin Clip d’Oreilles René Boivin
Citrines, Diamonds, Gold
1940

Françoise, what is your favorite stone?

Without hesitation, the diamond !
Especially the beautiful materials and more specifically the Golconde diamonds !

Françoise Cailles Expert at the jeweler Boivin Ring René Boivin Diamond, Platinum 1930
Françoise Cailles Expert at the jewelry store Boivin Ring René Boivin
Diamonds, Platinum
1930

Which jewel best represents you?

Definitely a pendant. Of course I wear rings, less often bracelets, but I really like pendants. Because I think they elongate the silhouette, and I don’t get tired of them.
Besides, I’m making a collection of them.

René Boivin Onyx Pendant, Coral, Diamonds 1928
Françoise Cailles Expert at the jewelry store Boivin Pendant René Boivin
Onyx, Coral, Diamonds
1928

A jeweler you like?

Without hesitation Boivin, Cartier and Lalique.

Clip René Boivin Citrines, Gold 1930
Clip by René Boivin
Citrines, Gold
1930

What led you to your profession as an expert?

First of all, the taste for jewelry. It’s true that as a little girl I already liked stones.
Also, my grandfather had given me a quartz block that I couldn’t get tired of looking at.
But what led me to this profession as an expert is first and foremost my passion for history. When you look at a jewel in a museum, you realize that it is a reflection of the history of the moment. Then my studies led me to Science Po and then the’École du Louvre.

Ring René Boivin Diamonds, Gold, Platinum 1940
Ring by René Boivin
Diamonds, Gold, Platinum
1940

Finally, I became an expert somewhat by chance. Moreover, I would say that the trigger factor and that publisher who asked me to write a book about jewelry was how he liked my writing, appreciated my books, but was unfamiliar with the world of jewelry. So he left me the choice of the subject. So it was René Boivin because I liked this innovative jeweler. Unfortunately, that publisher passed away and never saw the end of this book. In fact, it was thanks to Editions of the Amateur that this book was able to see the light of day.

FRANÇOISE CAILLES

Which piece of jewelry best represents Boivin to you?

Probably the Four Corps ring. Moreover, this is the first piece of jewelry by René Boivin that I have seen.
I would also add the clip Star of the sea.

Ring "Four Bodies" René Boivin Diamonds, Gold, circa 1950
Ring «Four Bodies»
René Boivin
Diamonds, Gold around 1950
Brooch "Etoile de Mer" René Boivin Ruby, Amethysts, Gold around 1940
Brooch «Etoile de Mer»
René Boivin
Ruby, Amethyst, Gold around 1940

What do you like about your job?

Human contact through beautiful jewelry.
It should not be forgotten that a jewel is a reflection of a person and their story. Moreover, it is also a human contact. Indeed, during a succession, I am presented with jewels and I can then feel the personality of the woman who might have worn that ring or that necklace. In fact, we can quite know the owner by their choices.

René Boivin Pendant Star-Shaped Sapphire, Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds, Gold, Silver 1940
René Boivin pendant
Sapphire Star, Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds, Gold, Silver
1940

A book you haven’t forgotten?

Kristin Lavransdatter of Sigrid Undset. It’s a real saga, a very beautiful story about a woman in the Middle Ages in beautiful writing where you can feel the density of the thought; I like the well-spoken and well-written language. It’s a book that follows me.

Bracelet René Boivin Gold 1932
Françoise Cailles Expert at the jeweler Boivin Bracelet René Boivin
Gold
1932

An exhibition?

For example, a beautiful exhibition in Brussels Ornaments of Power, Jewels of the European Courts. That was 2 or 3 years ago. It was very comprehensive; it was a treat, a beautiful presentation because it’s difficult to exhibit jewels.

Françoise Cailles Expert at the jeweler Boivin
Françoise Cailles Expert at the jeweler Boivin

A music you listen to?

Bach. I appreciate music. I learned to play the piano but I wasn’t fascinated, then the organ.
It must be said that the harpsichord was a revelation for me.
Moreover, it is a sophisticated, complex and polyphonic instrument.
The contact is different from the piano too; it doesn’t have the same personality. Without a doubt, the harpsichord is more sensual. When you pluck the string, you touch it; the sound is immediate, with great sensitivity.

Françoise Cailles Expert at the jewelry store Boivin Clip René Boivin Gold, Silver 1930
Françoise Cailles Expert at the jeweler Boivin Clip René Boivin
Or, Argent
1930

What would you like to accomplish?

If you consider that I have already achieved a number of things.
So, just keep doing what I’m doing. Life guides us!

Françoise Cailles Expert at the jeweler Boivin Clip René Boivin Gold, Pearls Around 1910
Françoise Cailles Expert at the jeweler Boivin Clip René Boivin
Or, Perles
Around 1910

Thanks Françoise for this delightful encounter, between jewels and music.
It was a pleasure to discover your archives on this exceptional jeweler, Boivin.

Photos Credits Artcurial, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, Tajan.

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Charlotte Wannebroucq, CNE-certified expert gemmologist
The author

Charlotte Wannebroucq

Gemmologist expert, member of the CNE-Art, and expert in signed jewelry. Twenty-five years of experience at the heart of Parisian jewelry, between the Carré Rive Gauche and Place Vendôme.
She signs the decryptions of collections, the analyses of stones and the estimates published in Esprit Joaillerie. Each piece commented on is examined in person, in the workshop, in the sales room or in the showroom.
  • Expertise

    Gemmology and signed jewellery

  • Member

    CNE-Art

  • Experience

    Over 25 years in Parisian jewellery

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