October is here already! I propose a little Provencal getaway…
Although jewelry conveys information about the person who wears it, not so long ago it also represented a geographical origin; we are then talking about regional jewelry. Often little known, objects from the past forgotten, these accessible jewels provide information about customs and traditions of the past.
Silver Brooch and Pentacrine
Gold and onyx earrings
If there is a typical Provençal jewel, it is the jewelry studded with «Pentacrine»!
The star jewel fits the shape of a fossil (called a pentachrina, which is a small marine animal similar to seals), with a hole in the center.
«The »Etoile de Saint Vincent« from the Digne region is characteristic of Provençal jewelry; this stone adorns the brooches, rings, and earrings. This »star" was considered a protective stone; it was often worn as a talisman.
These pentacrine jewels date generally from the mid-19th century, and their creator, Antoine Colomb, was a pupil of a famous Parisian goldsmith, Froment Meurice.
Passionate about nature, Antoine Colomb gave life to this fossil that overshadowed diamonds. Since 1976, the Pentacrines have been protected; they cannot be extracted. The sites designated as nature reserves extend from the Haute Provence Alps to the Var.
19th-century brooch «stargazing star», a nod to Chanel!
Two Gold Brooches and a Marine Fossil
These brooches were exclusively inlaid with pentacrine; they had very different shapes and styles.
around 1920
Early 20th century
Designed to close the corsage of coquettes, the brooches could be more classic. And while the pentacrine-studded jewelry is characteristic of Provence, it is worth noting the richness of the styles specific to this region. Sometimes ostentatious, the jewelry also reflects a keen interest in diamonds.
During traditional celebrations, our Provençal women also wore other jewelry, earrings that beautifully illuminated the faces of our charming ladies. In the 18th century, they were reserved for married young women, often «Dormeuses» or «Poissardes».
» Poissardes »
The «Poissardes» are rings of circular or oblong shape, decorated with a medallion or plaque. These earrings were quite eye-catching; their name probably derives from the fact that the fishmongers of Marseille loved to show off their jewelry!
Sometimes the loops were more elaborate, a kind of gold lace adorned with small diamonds.
Let us not forget the crosses that are very common; they suggest belonging to a religion and are worn around the neck on a velvet ribbon. In Provence, we encounter the crosses: Maintenon, Papillon, Dévote, Jeannette Capucine, Maltese (characteristic of the Arles region), Mistralienne…
The «Capucine» cross is typical of Provence. It is characterized by 5 hollow cones, topped with precious stones (often flat diamonds, rose cut). This «capucine» is always accompanied by a cruciform chalice, of the same pattern, cone topped with a stone.
I hope that this little visit has given you the desire and the idea to appreciate regional jewelry differently, which is also a cultural treasure.
Provençal Museum of Costume and Jewelry
2 rue Jean Ossola 06130 Grasse
+33 (0)4 93 36 44 65
Photo credits for the cross «Maintenon», »Dévote» and «Mistralienne» www.bijouxrégionaux.fr
